Ghana IV- The Coast

Enjoying the Beach

Molly on the beach.

Ryan on the beach.

From Kumasi we traveled back down to the coast on the bus. We stayed in a small fishing village called Ampenyi, where we spent our first day just relaxing on the beach, swimming in the ocean, and watching the local fishermen work in their boats made from hollowed-out tree stumps and adorned with bright colors and traditional symbols called Adinkra.

We very much enjoyed the place we stayed--Ko-Sa Beach resort--and would recommend it if you happen to find yourself planning a trip to Ghana. The beaches there were very quiet and isolated, and we found many interesting shells and stones. The place is owned by a Dutch couple, who have been doing renovations/updates, especially the open-air restaurant and common area with book-swap library and many games. Unfortunately for us, the books and most of the games were in Dutch or German! We found one game to play though--UNO!

Our hut. Ryan is standing with Ralph, a science teacher at the local school in Ampenyi. He owns a taxi, in which his brother, Simon drove us around to the local attractions.

Grilled lobster and chips. Quite possibly our favorite meal in Ghana.

The view from our breakfast table. The two smaller figures which look like small palm trees are actally women carrying palm branches on their heads down the beach!

Castles from the Slave-trade
Our second day on the coast we visited Cape Coast Castle in Cape Coast and St. George Castle in Elmina, where the British and Dutch, respectively, had their main bases in the trans-Atlantic slave trade. Our time at the castles was emotionally intense and disturbing, as we were given the opportunity to enter into the slave dungeons where thousands of human beings were kept for months on end without light, ventilation, or sanitation, and with very little food and water. The beauty of the castles’ natural surroundings—white sand beaches, crystal blue waters, palm trees swaying in the breeze—was a stark and disturbing contrast to the ugliness of their history.

Cape Coast Castle

Cape Coast Castle.

It was a hot, sunny day at Cape Coast Castle. Is it wrong to smile in this place?

Inside one of the slave dungeons, with no lights, and the door shut.

View from one of the upper rooms of the castle, a dining or meeting hall.

The "Door of No Return." Slaves exited this door to board the ships. This was their last glimpse of Africa.

Cape Coast, as seen from the castle.

A view from Cape Coast Castle.

A view from Cape Coast Castle.

St. George's Castle, Elmina

St. George's Castle from the road.

Interior courtyard of St. George's Castle.

We learned of a telling spacial heirarchy: Ground floor--Slaves dungeons (originally built for storing goods), First floor--small rooms for sailors, ministers, merchants, Second floor--Deputy Governor's quarters, Third floor--Governor's quarters (directly above female slave dungeon & courtyard).

The Condemned Cell.

Left door: Condemned Cell--for slaves who rebelled or tried to organize revolt. The cell has no window. They were given no food or water, and didn't come out of the cell alive.
Right door: Cell to punish rebellious soldiers. This cell had two windows for ventilation. They were fed. And released.

Stairway from female slave dungeon to Governor's bedroom.

Trap door from female slave dungeon to Governor's bedroom.

This stairway and trap door led directly from the courtyard outside the female slave dungeon to the Governor's bedroom. The Governor would come out on his balcony overlooking the courtyard and select a woman who would then be cleaned up and sent up the stairs to him.

The "Door of No Return" at St. George's Castle. Very short and narrow.

A view of St. George's castle.

Double Moats used to be filled with water, outside St. George's castle.

Entrance/Exit from St. George's Castle.

Simon! Our taxi driver for the day. He was very knowledgeable of the castles, especially St. George's Castle.

Kokrobite Fishing Village
We spent our final two days in Kokrobite, a fishing village on the beach just outside Accra, and within driving distance to the airport. The beach was very busy--with Rasta stands selling all sorts of clothing, jewelery and other traditional arts and crafts, alongside active fishing boats.

The beach at Kokrobite.

Beach-side stand with local jewelery and arts and crafts.

Fishing boats on the beach.

A fishing boat out at sea.

Fishing boat landing on the beach.

Men and boys on the shore rush over and help to pull in the boat.

One man (in yellow) pushes the boat, while others pull.

The boat is rolled up the beach using two flat boards, across which a thin log is placed, on which the boat rolls.

Local women buy fresh fish right off the boat.

Off the women go, while the fisherman carefully untangle their nets.

Ryan lounges with a cool drink, reading his kindle.

Ghana III--Kumasi, the Asante Capital

We flew to Kumasi, the Asante Capital, in a small prop plane--with 18 seats. This is a picture of Ghana's coast from the plane.

While in Kumasi, we visited the Manhyia Palace Museum (no pictures allowed) and spent a day at the cultural center where artisans were creating their arts and crafts in the open air (kente cloth, batik fabric, drums, paintings, pottery, baskets and jewelry).

While in Kumasi, we tried eating fufu, a Ghanaian traditional staple food, made of pounded and boiled cassava or yams, but we weren’t too keen on it. We much prefer Zambian nshima (made of corn meal or "mealie meal")! We did find some food we enjoyed--especially Jollof Rice, which is like a Ghanaian-style fried rice with tomato and chile seasonings.

a busy street in Kumasi at twilight

The Presbyterian Guest House in Kumasi, where we stayed.

The hallway of the guest house.

The entrance to the cultural center.

Artisans working outside at the cultural center.

Small wax figurines will be cast in plaster, then melted out and filled with molten brass to make brass weights.

Batik cloth drying on the lawn.

Ryan with our newly acquired djembe drum (on his back) and it's maker.

Molly drinking a sachet of water--much cheaper than a bottle. Just rip and suck!

A truck carrying a huge load of the above-mentioned water sachets.

Fufu in soup with hunks of goat meat.

Jollof Rice with more goat meat. Ryan really liked the Jollof.

Fried Plantains! The best--we ordered it after the Fufu which we couldn't finish.

We also attended worship at the Presbyterian Church of Ghana, Adum Congregation Kumasi. It was right across the street from the Presbyterian Guest House where we stayed. Molly wore her clergy shirt and collar (one of the only clean shirts she had). Ryan wore a Daishiki and shorts and his Birkenstocks (he forgot to pack his clergy shirt). So Molly got us an all-access pass to sit in the very front of the congregation--which was a really interesting view point. Many people in Ghana, especially the men, now wear the traditional cloth--slung across one shoulder. You can see the men in cloth if you look closely at the photos in the church. Fortunately we weren't asked to preach!

Presbyterian Church of Ghana, Adum Congregation, Kumasi.

A view of the congregation: the choir on the top level--along with a brass band, organ, synthesizers, drum set and traditional drums.

Offering--they have huge 3-tiered golden buckets for each side ("tithe," "offering 1," & "offering 2") PLUS a brass bowl for a special offering because it was Education Sunday.

A funny "health tip" on the big screen at the front of the church.