Thursday, February 24, 2011

A Teacher’s Observations

I got this idea of reflecting on my experience teaching, from my sister, Martha, who keeps a blog, called The Substitute Chronicles, of her adventures and reflections as a substitute teacher.

So here are some of my reflections from conducting TEEZ Tutor Trainings thus far:

- Practical experience and students’ own discovery will provide a deeper, lasting knowledge. This is a foundational principle of TEEZ. We work hard to incorporate practical work into every aspect of the program. It was reinforced for me during the Tutors training this week at Kalulushi. I had spent a good deal of a 90 minute session talking about the importance of asking questions, and types of questions that can best spur discussion. Then at the end of the day, we were gathered in a circle, each participant sharing what they learned today. One man shared something from when he was practicing leading a study group: he learned the importance of asking the group good questions. I was humbled. My brilliant, interactive session was not the source of his inspiration and new knowledge! (Though perhaps it did plant seeds for his learning). It was his experience actually practicing the skills that sealed the deal for him and solidified his knowing. This encourages me in my efforts to be more interactive with my class sessions, try to let go of control, and trust that the students will learn, especially when they are able to find the answers themselves.

- I had a moment of sheer delight when a student applied a theory to his situation. The young man who has been serving as translator for most of the sessions in the Kalulushi Tutors training came to me at the break with a question. He gave an example of his youth group and wanted my opinion on which stage of group development (forming, storming, or norming-Tuckman 1965) the group was in. Not only did I feel grateful (and gratified, to be honest) that he was mastering and applying the theory, but I also quite enjoyed the opportunity to share stories and experiences with him over some common ground of ministry. Sometimes it feels as if Zambian Christianity and American Christianity are two different religions, so it is refreshing to find places where our experiences are very similar.

- I find myself thinking sometimes, “I can’t believe these adults are listening to me!” This is probably a struggle not uncommon to young pastors, especially when one is first starting out. It can be difficult for me to claim my authority as a pastor and leader when I’m standing in front of a room full of my elders. (I can hardly write “my authority” without musing at the absurdity of the thought!) But then there are moments in which I say something, or lead a discussion, which I can tell has really helped someone think differently or has added an insight to something they already know to be true. I remember the passage from 1 Timothy 4:12—“let no one despise you because of your youth, but set the believers an example in speech and conduct, in love, in faith, in purity.” It is not so much about how old I am, but about what I have to offer the community of faith. In humility and love. When it is an offering which really is for the good of the community, authority will be granted—or perhaps recognized—no matter what the person’s age. It’s funny, but I am surprised over and over to find that this is true, and these adults really are listening to me!

Along a similar vein, I find myself having to walk the delicate balance between confidence and humility. In order that my youth-anxiety is not a stumbling block to actually sharing and doing ministry, I often must pump myself up and even give myself a little pep-talk. (“You’re old enough, you’re smart enough—you’re an ordained reverend for goodness sake!—And gosh-darn it, people like you!”) But I have to be careful to not become over-confident. There is such a wealth of wisdom and experience in the groups of adults whom TEEZ is training. If I come across a western concept, I’m finding it is much better to simply ask “are you familiar with the concept of mob psychology (for example)?” rather than assume everyone’s ignorance. For then I may fall into the trap of being patronizing and arrogant. And I can miss the great opportunity to use the group’s wisdom to aid and increase the learning process. I’m often humbled by the total reversal of my expectations or assumptions. I have as much to learn as I have to teach.

There is a certain amount of "authority" that is seemingly granted automatically to those with white skin, western privilege, and/or clergy status. And it can be tempting to try to clothe myself in this so-called "authority"—to demand or assume authority. And there are perhaps situations in which this can be helpful or good—for example I sometimes wear my collar when going to visit the prison, or when preaching, especially if Ryan is wearing his somewhere—because I've found people treat me differently when I do. But ultimately, I think its about recognizing someone's authority. I can try to take authority, but I won't really have any unless it is recognized by others. And it is in those moments, when someone—especially someone who is my elder, in a totally different country & context—recognizes something I say or do as having authority in their lives, which is truly miraculous to me. It can be nothing but God's Spirit working through me. It is truly humbling. It is my prayer that I will be able to proceed with humility.

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Tanzanian Safari!

Here are some photos from our trip to Tanzania over the holiday. These were taken at Lake Manyara National Park (where we saw lots of elephants), and the Ngorongoro Crater (where we saw so many animals, including a rhino--but from so far away it didn't really count because it looked like a grey spot). We also glimpsed Mt. Kilimanjaro on the bus ride back from Arusha to Dar es Salaam.

This little monkey greeted us on the path while we were waiting to pay our entrance fees for Lake Manyara NP. Our guide's cash card wasn't working, then the lady went on her lunch break--so we also took our lunch break while we waited--and this monkey posed alot for us in the meantime.

This was the company we used for our 2-day/1-night camping safari. They were a good budget option. Their slogan says it all: "Almost the best for almost the least."

Molly and Ryan with our best man, Carl, at the top of Ngorongoro Crater.

The vehicle we spent 2 days in. The roof pops up so you can stand up and see out of it.

newborn impala--probably about 30 minutes old.


guinea fowl--my favorite

Lion and lioness--post-coital. This was mating season.

spotted hyena

cheetah

another wild and dangerous animal

crested crane

fox pups

zebras sparring

two more of my favorites: wildebeast and warthogs! they look so strange!

ostrich

elephant

another view from the top

dik dik.
these are the smallest antelope (a bit bigger than a rabbit), and very rare to see.
Ryan was very excited. I only got this poor photo because it was pooping! No time to get a better one.


the watering hole

Molly holding two giraffe in her hand

the two giraffe. isn't this picturesque?

hippos at the waterhole

don't know the name of these birds at the waterhole.

Cape buffalo

SOOO many elephants at Lake Manyara NP. Carl was very excited.

up-close and personal with another giraffe.

old male giraffe. you can tell bc of his dark spots and his horns are bald and knobby.
males get darker as they age.


warthogs

Elephants--this baby was so tiny-- our guide guessed about 1 month old!

Baboon piggy-back

aren't baby baboons the cutest?

Mt. Kilimanjaro

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

The doors of Zanzibar

Zanizibar is known for its architecture, doors in particular. They are one illustration of the diversity of the population in Zanzibar. Let us share with you a little of what we learned. There will be a quiz at the end, and we hope you will comment with your responses!
Above is an Indian door. Characteristic features include the rounded, ornate top, and the big spikey things. Sorry, I don't know the technical name, but they are to keep elephants from ramming in the door. This was a real problem in India, though in Zanzibar there are no elephants.
Above is an Arabian door. Characteristic features include the square-shaped top, the ornately carved middle support dividing the two doors, and Arabic writing, usually quotes from the Qur'an (closeup below).
Above is an African door. Characteristic features include, simple construction, no middle support piece, not usually very ornate, and as our guide emphasized, "four or five locks, to protect against thieves." Yes, he really said that!

Ahmed, our tour guide through Stonetown. He taught us all about the doors and everything else. He's wearing a kofia--traditional hat worn by Muslim men, and a long tunic which reaches to the ankles. Underneath he wears swim trunks! We discovered this when we got caught in a rainstorm, and he gathered up his white tunic to keep it from getting soaked and dirty.

Above,Carl, Molly & Ryan, chilling out at the Africa House, a formerly a British men-only jazz club, now a posh hotel with relaxing balcony restaurant but extremely over-priced food.

Zanzibar Anglican Cathedral (above), with the minaret from a mosque in the background. The Cathedral was built in 1887 to commemorate the end of the slave trade. The site had originally been a slave trading market. The cathedral's altar stands at the site of a tree where slaves used to be tied and beaten. The adjoining building, St. Monica's hostel has a notorious pit in the cellar where slaves were kept before being taken to market for auction. (pictured below).


The Old Fort

Ryan taking in a view of Zanzibar harbor over the rooftops.

QUIZ:
What type of door is pictured below?

Leave a comment with your answer to the quiz question!

Monday, February 14, 2011

The Enchanting Island of Zanzibar

A View of Zanzibar Harbor, with traditional fishing dhow (left) and Beit el-Ajaib (House of Wonders - right)
 
Okay: continuing the reportage on our Christmas vacation to Tanzania.  (Sorry I've been so slow about that.)

After a relaxing and rejeuvenating five days on the mainland (see Molly's post, "A Sunny & Warm Christmas"), we took a ferry to the island of Zanzibar, about 30 kilometers (18 miles) off the coast.  We took the "fast ferry," and so after about 2 1/2 hours, we arrived in the harbor of Zanzibar Town, on the southwestern side of the island.  We had been expecting to meet my friend Carl (best buddy since age 8 and best man at our wedding), who was scheduled to land at the Zanzibar airport at 4pm that day.  Unfortunately, Carl's journey to Africa didn't go exactly as planned.  He had been scheduled to fly from John F. Kennedy Airport in New York to Dulles International in Washington, DC.  From there, he would fly to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, from Addis to Dar es Salaam, and from Dar to Zanzibar.  It didn't quite work that way.  There were blizzards in New York (as you Madison Avenue Presbyterians know), so Carl's flight out of JFK was canceled.  He managed to take the Amtrak train down to DC (which was itself delayed by 5 hours due to snow) and catch a few winks of sleep at his uncle's house before catching the next flight to Addis the following morning.  Upon arriving at Dulles, he was informed that his flight would in fact be on a smaller plane than originally planned, which would necessitate a stopover for refueling in Rome, adding another 5 hours or so to the trip.  Ethiopian Airlines did put him up in a hotel in Addis (half under construction) for his 7 hour layover there, and he managed to call our cell phone from the hotel to inform us of the delays.  He couldn't say for sure, he told us, but he thought he'd arrive in Zanzibar on Thursday, a day later than scheduled.

So Molly and I had an afternoon and evening to ourselves as we awaited Carl's arrival.  We decided to just take it easy, exploring a bit of the island on foot.  We walked along the harborfront until we came to Forodhani Gardens, a beautiful little park in the center of town that had recently been refurbished by the Aga Khan Charitable Trust (the Aga Khan is the leader of the largest branch of the Ismaili sect of Shi'i Islam).  We walked around the park a bit and grabbed some dinner--the day's catch, fresh from the sea, grilled upon purchase in the open air.  Molly also sampled a local specialty, "Zanzibari Pizza," a thin piece of dough topped with meat or seafood (Molly had prawns), eggs, mayonnaise, and cheese, and folded like a crepe.  We washed it all down with a glass of freshly-pressed sugar cane juice with lime and ginger.  It was all quite delicious.  Though some of the seafood I ate gave me the runs, Molly emerged unscathed.

Zanzibar harborfront at sunset
Forodhani Gardens from above


A pretty little gazebo/stupa thing in the middle of Forodhani Gardens

Dinnertime at Forodhani Gardens: freshly caught and grilled seafood
Chef making Molly a "Zanzibari Pizza"
For our first two nights in Stone Town (the historic center of Zanzibar Town), we stayed at Zenji Hotel, which we recommend very highly to anyone who may find her/himself in Zanzibar--it is inexpensive, clean, ecologically and socially responsible, and the service is excellent.  Whenever the housekeepers make up the rooms, they leave colorful flower petals strewn across the beds and fresh home-made soaps in the bathroom.  They have a charming little rooftop cafe, which serves a free continental breakfast to guests every morning, including fresh tropical fruit, juice, toast with delicious homemade jams (pineapple-vanilla, banana-spice, and mango-citrus), fresh baked chocolate cake (muffin-like), and eggs cooked to order.  As well as the hotel, Zenji operates a gift and souvenir shop next door and a plethora of very inexpensively-priced tours and activities throughout the island.  The hotel also has free high-speed wireless internet, so when we got home from our walk and dinner in Forodhani Gardens, we promptly checked our email to see if there was any more news on Carl's whereabouts.  Sure enough there was an email which Carl sent to his dad, who forwarded it to my mom, who forwarded it to me!  Carl would be catching the overnight flight from Addis, which would get him into the Zanzibar airport at 3:45am.  Molly and I went to the front desk, reserved Carl a taxi from the airport, and I caught a few winks of sleep before waking up at 4am to welcome Carl to Zanzibar.
 

He arrived right on schedule so after lots of hugs and "So great to see you!"s, we all got some rest before breakfast. We spent the next couple of days exploring Stone Town, the historic center of Zanzibar Town, filled with twisting narrow streets and buildings of coral cement. We visited the Palace Museum and House of Wonders, discovering Zanzibar’s colorful history, replete with Omani sultans who stood at the center of a wealthy empire fueled by the trade of spices and slaves, the rebellious Princess Salme, the Swahili culture of East African coastal communities, British colonization, political independence, the bloody revolution in which African Zanzibaris wrested political control from their Arab rulers, and the island archipelago’s eventual incorporation into the United Republic of Tanzania. At the end of our first day with Carl, we took a sunset cruise on a traditional fishing dhow.  Early the next morning, we explored the bustling Darajhani Market.


Carl and me on the balcony of the Sultan's Palace
Wandering the winding streets of Stone Town
Molly on the balcony of the sultan's palace
The view from the sultan's receiving room
Beit al-Ajaib, or House of Wonders, now a museum of Zanzibari and Swahili history and culture
Beit al-Ajaib as seen from Forodhani Gardens
A dhow in the harbor
Molly and me enjoying the sunset dhow cruise
Carl looking cool in his shades on the sunset cruise
Sunset in Zanzibar Harbor
Darajhani Market
Coconut and breadfruit for sale at the market
Mutton hanging from the ceiling; their heads are at the bottom right
The fish market
Octopus for sale
More fish for sale
A hammerhead shark being butchered for sale











Stay tuned for more posts detailing our further adventures in Zanzibar and mainland Tanzania!