Scatterlings of Africa: Amazing Trip: Central Coast of Vietnam

We spent 12 days total in Vietnam, from Oct 19-30. After Hanoi and Halong Bay, we traveled by train and bus down the coast. We enjoyed several days in the Central coast area, including the cities of Hue, Hoi An, and a brief stop in Danang. We continued down the coast toward Saigon, taking a couple days on the beach in Mui Ne (2 hours North of Saigon) before hitting the city.

The largest stretches we traveled by train--by sleeper car. The first time we were in a "soft sleeper" which has 4 beds in a compartment (double berth, aka- two levels on each side). It is easy to sit up on these bench-beds during the day. The second train we took, this kind was sold out, so we were in a "hard sleeper," which has 6 beds (three berths on each side). The beds weren't really any harder in the "hard sleeper," you just couldn't sit up. We shared this compartment with a family--mom, dad, grandmother and little baby. They didn't really speak English, but we communicated with smiles and some sign-language.

There is a toilet room and a wash room--with sinks, on either end of every train car. Some were "normal" toilets, and some were "squatty potties." All in all, it was quite comfortable. And unlike the train we took from Zambia to Tanzania, these ones had air-conditioning, and working lights and plugs (not all of these things worked on the TaZaRa train).

Train station as we arrived in Hue. We took an overnight sleeper train which was about 9 hours.

Ryan at Hue train station.

We took a motorbike tour around Hue, to see the tombs of the Nyugen Dynasty, the Citadel and a Pagoda along the Song Huong river. At first, we were nervous to ride motorbikes, but then we got the hang of it and it was really fun! It was a great way to see the countryside around Hue and the busy city.

Ryan happily rides on the back of a motorbike.

Drying rice on the road!

Khai Dinh tomb in Hue. The This was up several flights of stairs.

View from Khai Dinh tomb.

Life-sized statue of the Emperor Khai Dinh, above his tomb. The whole huge building in his tomb, in fact. This ornate room and building was built from 1920-1930.

Mosaic dragons on pillars in the tomb room of Khai Dinh.

Tomb of Empress Le Thien Anh within Tu Duc tomb complex

"The tomb of Emperor Tu Du was constructed from 1864-67 and served as a second imperial city where the Emperor (who reigned from 1848-83) went for relief from national and household concerns" (from signage at the tomb complex). In other words, this is where he came to contemplate nature, write poetry and frolic with his concubines. His wife and son also have tombs in the complex. I guess they were allowed in after they'd died, and were no longer a drag on the Emperor from which he needed "relief."

Imperial Enclosure, Citadel, Hue

Inside the Citadel, we walked around the former Imperial city, Imperial Enclosure and the "Forbidden Purple City"reserved for the private life of the Emperor. Heavily bombed in the war, many of the buildings are crumbling or completely gone, while some are being rebuilt/restored. A row of buildings used to be where these gardens now are, as well as where I was standing.

This golden dragon inside the Citadel.

The overgrown Imperial Enclosure. Buildings being repaired across the way.

A restored walkway within the Citadel.

Elephants used to be used for transport here, and you can still hitch a ride. We just happened upon this off-duty elephant (above), and while we were creeping closer for a better look, this second one (below) came walking up behind us! It took a minute to realize there was a Mahout (handler) riding it.

Thien Mu Pagoda, along the banks of the Song Huong river.

On Sunday morning, we had a delightful adventure. We rose with the sun to try to catch the early service at Notre Dame Cathedral so we'd have time to catch our mid-day bus. Even at 6am, it was already oppressively hot and humid, which slowed us down a bit. We got there in time for only the very end of the service! But a tiny little septo-genarian nun, Sister St. Ephrem, befriended us after the service. She spoke excellent English and proceeded to show us around the Cathedral and take our photo from every possible angle. She advised us that there was a second morning service at 8am. In the meantime, she helped us find a local specialty food that we'd been told you could get in the area, and led us to the best coffee stand-- on the sidewalk across from the Cathedral. It was where the Priest gets his coffee, in fact. At one point, she even became our server of sorts. She brought us our coffee, and then took our money for us to the coffee stand owner.

Notre Dame Cathedral

Notre Dame Cathedral.

During the Eucharist, when the bells ring at the moment when the elements turn into the body and blood of Christ, they also sound a huge traditional drum (on the right) and a gong! Really adds to the mystery of the moment.

Sister Saint Ephrem

Notre Dame Cathedral

Notre Dame Cathedral, nuns in traditional ao dai habits serving communion

Notre Dame Cathedral

Ryan reads his Kindle on the bus

We met up with Thien Tu and his wife Hannah during our brief stopover in Danang. He got his PhD at the GTU. We had a great time at dinner, as they introduced us to lots of Vietnamese food, and shared some insightful comments about the Church in Vietnam.