Scatterlings of Africa: Ghana IV- The Coast

Enjoying the Beach

Molly on the beach.

Ryan on the beach.

From Kumasi we traveled back down to the coast on the bus. We stayed in a small fishing village called Ampenyi, where we spent our first day just relaxing on the beach, swimming in the ocean, and watching the local fishermen work in their boats made from hollowed-out tree stumps and adorned with bright colors and traditional symbols called Adinkra.

We very much enjoyed the place we stayed--Ko-Sa Beach resort--and would recommend it if you happen to find yourself planning a trip to Ghana. The beaches there were very quiet and isolated, and we found many interesting shells and stones. The place is owned by a Dutch couple, who have been doing renovations/updates, especially the open-air restaurant and common area with book-swap library and many games. Unfortunately for us, the books and most of the games were in Dutch or German! We found one game to play though--UNO!

Our hut. Ryan is standing with Ralph, a science teacher at the local school in Ampenyi. He owns a taxi, in which his brother, Simon drove us around to the local attractions.

Grilled lobster and chips. Quite possibly our favorite meal in Ghana.

The view from our breakfast table. The two smaller figures which look like small palm trees are actally women carrying palm branches on their heads down the beach!

Castles from the Slave-trade
Our second day on the coast we visited Cape Coast Castle in Cape Coast and St. George Castle in Elmina, where the British and Dutch, respectively, had their main bases in the trans-Atlantic slave trade. Our time at the castles was emotionally intense and disturbing, as we were given the opportunity to enter into the slave dungeons where thousands of human beings were kept for months on end without light, ventilation, or sanitation, and with very little food and water. The beauty of the castles’ natural surroundings—white sand beaches, crystal blue waters, palm trees swaying in the breeze—was a stark and disturbing contrast to the ugliness of their history.

Cape Coast Castle

Cape Coast Castle.

It was a hot, sunny day at Cape Coast Castle. Is it wrong to smile in this place?

Inside one of the slave dungeons, with no lights, and the door shut.

View from one of the upper rooms of the castle, a dining or meeting hall.

The "Door of No Return." Slaves exited this door to board the ships. This was their last glimpse of Africa.

Cape Coast, as seen from the castle.

A view from Cape Coast Castle.

St. George's Castle, Elmina

St. George's Castle from the road.

Interior courtyard of St. George's Castle.

We learned of a telling spacial heirarchy: Ground floor--Slaves dungeons (originally built for storing goods), First floor--small rooms for sailors, ministers, merchants, Second floor--Deputy Governor's quarters, Third floor--Governor's quarters (directly above female slave dungeon & courtyard).

The Condemned Cell.

Left door: Condemned Cell--for slaves who rebelled or tried to organize revolt. The cell has no window. They were given no food or water, and didn't come out of the cell alive.
Right door: Cell to punish rebellious soldiers. This cell had two windows for ventilation. They were fed. And released.

Stairway from female slave dungeon to Governor's bedroom.

Trap door from female slave dungeon to Governor's bedroom.

This stairway and trap door led directly from the courtyard outside the female slave dungeon to the Governor's bedroom. The Governor would come out on his balcony overlooking the courtyard and select a woman who would then be cleaned up and sent up the stairs to him.

The "Door of No Return" at St. George's Castle. Very short and narrow.

A view of St. George's castle.

Double Moats used to be filled with water, outside St. George's castle.

Entrance/Exit from St. George's Castle.

Simon! Our taxi driver for the day. He was very knowledgeable of the castles, especially St. George's Castle.

Kokrobite Fishing Village
We spent our final two days in Kokrobite, a fishing village on the beach just outside Accra, and within driving distance to the airport. The beach was very busy--with Rasta stands selling all sorts of clothing, jewelery and other traditional arts and crafts, alongside active fishing boats.