Amazing Trip: Chiang Mai, Thailand

We really enjoyed Chiang Mai, Thailand. We were there for the better part of seven days (Sat 8 Oct to Fri 14 Oct). In the North, Chiang Mai has a substantial Christian community in this otherwise predominantly Buddhist country, especially around Payap University, which is a Christian school owned by the Church of Christ in Thailand (CCT). There is still a very strong missionary presence in Thailand, and the PC(USA) has several Mission Co-workers in this area. A few of the Americans we met are second-generation, and many came as volunteers for a year or two and ended up staying for 20 years or more. We were so impressed with all the Americans who speak fluent Thai!

Thailand was different from the countries we visited in Southern Africa. First of all, Christianity is a minority religion, though legal and without historically facing political persecution. In Africa, we found that it is primarily Africans who are evangelizing and growing the church, while mission worker types are supplementing that work with special skills and leadership. One of the biggest requests from African churches and organizations is for funds. From what we learned, it seems in Thailand, the Thais, for whatever reason, are still reliant on foreign leadership. Mission workers in Chiang Mai are working hard to ensure partnership and sustainability. But the changeover to a new model of mission looks different here. However, it does seem that the CCT is much more sustainable when it comes to income-generation and funding its own programs.

A busy street in Chiang Mai. Tuk-tuk (motorcyle taxi) on left.

Mobile bicycle shop driving down the Super Highway--a four-lane divided highway which rings the city.

The gold-wrapped items are for presentation at the temples.

We were in Chiang Mai during a time in the Buddhist year for "making merit" or building your good karma. Lots of items were for sale to take to the temples or local shrines. Traditional animism is also very intertwined with Buddhism in Thailand. Most Thais will have a spirit house (doll-house sized pagoda) on their property, that way the spirits who live there will have a place to live and won't bother their homes. Daily offerings are given to the spirits such as bits of rice, fruit, softdrinks, smoothies, sweets. Christian homes will (ostensibly) not have these. Though I wonder if, like in Zambia, you have many Christians who still ascribe to the traditional belief in spirits and witchcraft and in a pinch will turn to the witch doctor (especially if prayer isn't giving the desired results).

A Buddhist Temple complex along the road.

Annette George (above), our host in Chiang Mai, in a "song-thaew"--a covered taxi in a truck bed. The house she lives in is an old missionary house that Janet Guyer (now in South Africa) grew up in, as did Sharon Bryant before her (you'll meet Sharon below).

Our first night in Thailand, we had the pleasure of attending a special celebration of 50 years of ministry (& 52 years of marriage) of the Reverends Joan and Allan Eubanks, mission workers with the Disciples of Christ. They have a great story--Both from Texas, he had a future in the oil industry and she was a professional singer and actress in Hollywood & Broadway. During the Korean war, her group performed for US soldiers abroad where Allan, an army captain, heard Joan perform for the first time. They met by chance a couple more times in the States and discovered they both felt called to serve the Church. Allan went to Bible college, then seminary, as did Joan, and they married and moved to Thailand almost immediately after Joan's seminary graduation.

It was a spectacular event, with a video presentation about their story, musical presentations by groups of people who they've worked with over the years and even their own grandkids, televised greetings from special guests who couldn't be present, and my favorite, a Likay (traditional Thai musical melodrama) performance. The Eubanks founded the Christian Communications Institute, which uses traditional Thai folk art to dramatize Bible stories and other ethical plays. They were encouraged to do so by a young Thai dancer they met by chance, and collaborated with that family of performers to develop the first shows and eventually a professional company. CCI is now part of Payap University, fulfilling the school's mission to serve society and preserve Thai culture.

Esther Wakeman, PC(USA) Mission Co-worker and Director of CCI, gives the opening speech at the Eubanks' celebration.

Rev. Dr. Boonratna Boayen, Moderator of the Christian Church in Thailand.

Likay performance of the "Prodigal Daughter"

Likay performance of the "Prodigal Daughter"

Joan and Allan Eubank

Sunday we went to Church with Annette, at Payap Church, a Thai (CCT) congregation which meets on the Payap campus. Annette is a flutist and teaches music at Payap, and also serves this Thai congregation by leading a music group once a month in Sunday services. They provided all the service music and accompanied all the hymns, which were traditional Anglo hymns sung in Thai. Ryan and I sat at the back and wore headphones with simultaneous English translation provided. There was also an English hymnal, so we really felt able to participate, even though the whole service was in Thai. Afterward, there was a community meal provided. This was also something different, as rarely in Zambia did we encounter food fellowship for the whole church community after a Sunday service. In Zambian churches, we as special guests were sometimes served refreshments or lunch with the pastor or a few leaders, but the rest went home to their own devices. Not sure if this is due to poverty or to cultural differences.

The praise band leads singing and prayer for 30 minutes or so prior to the prelude.

Annette on flute (and piano, alternately), mother and daughter both students of Annette's.

Monday we visited the McKean Rehabilitation Institute, a former leper colony on an island outside Chiang Mai (island meaning separated from the rest of the land by a river and moat). McKean is now a rehabilitation hospital for post-surgery patients, though a few people remain who used to suffer from leprosy, many of them work on the island. McKean is one of the pioneers in elder-care in Thailand, with a brand-new nursing home, Dok Kaew Gardens. We were taken by Sharon Bryant, PC(USA) Mission Co-worker, who is working to re-start & coordinate a volunteer program for the increasing need for English language teachers in Thailand. She introduced us to Beth Roadarmel, a Presbyterian "mish-kid" (missionary kid) also--they grew up together in Chiang Mai, and now they are both back. Beth is a registered nurse and administrator; she has been instrumental in helping get Dok Kaew Gardens up and running. This was their first year taking residents.

Rehabilitation hospital

Physical therapy area

Physical therapy and massage area

In-patient room

This former leprosy patient has been working for years making custom-made shoes for other McKean patients.

The shoe-shop also makes custom prostheses. Leprosy patients often become amputees--the disease causes loss of sensation, which then leads to secondary problems that can require amputation.

Dr. McKean

Main Chapel on the island

A few former leprosy patients still live here, though most have been reintegrated into the community. They stay in one of the remaining villages on the island. There were 5 or so such villages.

Second chapel and a community center, near the village

I was really amused by the chickens in Thailand--they looked very different to me--really tall and skinny with extra long necks! The baskets they were kept in, though, looked practically the same as in Zambia.

Sharon Bryant, at the McKean museum--her father is in the photos, visiting patients--with the king! Her father worked for several years as director of McKean.

Former leprosy patients make handicrafts which are sold at the gift shop.

Dok Kaew Gardens, the courtyard between buildings

Beth Roadarmel shows Ryan the large common space, including dining room--and sitting areas/ TV area out of view.

one of the rooms--with traditional Chiang Mai style furniture

We ate lunch at Dok Kaew with Beth and Sharon. The Dok Kaew staff is great.

Monday afternoon, we got to see Esther Wakeman's part of Payap University. She is the Vice President for Spiritual and Community Life. So she's kind of a Chaplain for the whole university, but she is also working hard to develop residence life programs on the campus. She also serves as Director of the Christian Communications Institute. CCI has a professional troupe of actors who perform Christian Likay shows (like above) all around the country, as well as ethical plays in the Christian schools of the CCT. This is really a slick operation--they even have a recording studio and film studio with green screen! CCI used to broadcast on the radio, and has recorded many of their Likay performances on DVD and CD. They are now is expanding to offer video recording and editing to other organizations. They did an anniversary video for McKean Rehab Institute, which we watched at the museum. We were very impressed and inspired by the CCI--how they have developed such a dynamic program which uses traditional Thai art forms as well as the skills and passion of its mission-workers and local people to share the gospel in a culturally relevant and entertaining way.

Part of the main Payap Campus. It's so big (and there are two campuses) it was impossible to really get a picture representing the whole of Payap. The past president who built many of the buildings did so with an overarching architectural theme (i.e. they all more or less match).

Christian Communications Institute (CCI) banner/poster

CCI's recording studio

Watchara Punpapai (nickname Ood) working in CCI's recording studio

Large dance/practice studio. Costumes from the performance at the Eubank's Celebration are being organized and put away. One of the troupe members is the main seamstress for all their costumes.

Bryan, one of the actors in the troupe, who also designed the banner/poster above. Bryan is one of the few troupe members who didn't study at the Performing Arts College in Bangkok. Esther has a dream of Payap one day having a Christian college for the Performing Arts.

Annette always had some wonderful tropical fruit waiting for us as an afternoon snack! "Fairy-fingers bananas," pineapple, dragon fruit, and papaya.

Bill Yoder, former PC(USA) Regional Liaison now retired, hosted a dinner for all the "Presbyterian types" in Chiang Mai. Several people were busy, so those who were there were mostly the Co-Workers we met with throughout the week--it was nice to have a more intimate evening.

Tuesday morning, we met Bill at McGilvary College of Divinity (which is part of Payap), where he used to serve as Professor and Dean, and now has an office and teaches as Dean Emeritus. He was instrumental in raising the money and overseeing the building process for the new seminary building--when the superhighway was built inches in front of their front door and was shaking the old building to its foundations! The seminary chapel is itself very special. It was designed by Thai pastor and artist, Sawai. He uses traditional Thai art forms (he first trained as a Buddhist temple muralist) to convey Christian themes and stories. It's really brilliant. And brilliant of Bill and McGilvary to encourage and support Sawai. When Sawai was a new convert, his pastor at the time told him he must give up his art because it was Buddhist. Years later, as a seminarian, Sawai was inspired to paint a nativity scene in the style of his training. He showed it to Bill with some trepidation. Bill loved it, and Sawai asked, "You don't think it's Buddhist?" to which Bill replied, "No, it's Thai, and obviously Christian!" Sawai served McGilvary for several years as artist in residence.

My time in Chiang Mai, inspired me as an artist and minister. It has strengthened a dream of mine that has been developing. Bill is a great patron of the arts. I wish to also be a patron, and perhaps a philanthropist for arts in ministry, and especially in traditional cultures with such rich artistic traditions. It is a great opportunity to preserve culture and enliven our faith at the same time. Throughout history, so many artists struggle to make art and make a living. Endowments and patronage have been an important ingredient in arts and culture-making. I hope to learn more about how to raise money for these things that are so important to me, and provide opportunities for young artists who dare to use their talents to serve God and God's world.

McGilvary College of Divinity

Bill Yoder

Bill, Ryan, and Rev. Dr. Satanan Boonyakiert, Dean of the McGilvary College of Divinity, in front of the chapel, with one of Sawai's paintings.

Chapel at McGilvary

When the new building was built, staff and students wanted to keep the space without any pews. People sit on cushions on the floor, as is traditional for Thai worship.

Sawai's stained glass designs

Front of the chapel

On Tuesday we also met with John and Martha Butt at the Institute of Religion, Culture and Peace on the Payap Campus. They have a different approach to the classic discipline of "Comparative Religion." Instead, their basic 101 course is entitled the "History of Human Religiousness." They have a new Ph.D. program, but otherwise mostly run short courses for visiting groups on study trips. A church or college group can come for 2-3 weeks or more, and have classes in the mornings and hands-on experiences meeting people or taking field trips to places which illustrate class concepts through a Thai lens. It is really an interfaith effort and staff. John Butt is now retired, but continuing on as a consultant during an overlapping time with the new Director. There are Buddhists, Christians, and Muslims working together at the Institute. The staff are also actively involved in Interfaith partnerships and peacemaking in Thailand, such as a peaceful solution to the problem of Islamic extremist violence in the south.

The College of Wooster has been studying at the IRCP for a number of years, led by Prof. Ishwar Harris. We knew some students who did the semester-long program, when we were working at Wooster. And we audited Prof. Harris' class on Gandhi. Wouldn't you know, Ishwar and his wife were there during our visit! But not with COW students, as he's also retired now too. He's co-teaching the "History of Human Religousness" class with John Butt to the Ph.D. students. Linda Morgan-Clement, Chaplain and Director of Interfaith Campus Ministries at Wooster, (and my former boss & mentor) will carry on the tradition of bringing COW students to Payap this year, as part of her course on Asian Feminist Theologies.

Institute of Religion, Culture and Peace

Jyotsna & Ishwar Harris talking with John Butt

Ishwar on his bike

We all had lunch together at a great open air Thai restaurant that had mist spray for a kind of AC.
from left: Ryan, Molly, Martha Butt, Bill Yoder, Ishwar & Jyotsna Harris, John Butt.

Around Chiang Mai

Besides learning all about the Christian community and Payap in Chiang Mai, we also spent some time around town experiencing more of the city and surrounds.

Ryan wading through material at a fabric shop

An indoor shopping area with booth upon booth. You can buy almost anything imaginable somewhere under this roof!

Muay Thai boxing--punching with the fists is considered the lowest move. Instead, there are all sorts of moves involving kicks and knee- or elbow-jabs.

Live Muay Thai boxing action!

Dance performance at the Galare Night Bazaar. The dancers have to try to maintain a very stoic facial expression.

Trip to the market during our Thai cooking class with Pom, our instructor. We are buying sticky rice aka "glutinous rice" which actually doesn't have gluten. But when you steam it, it naturally sticks together. It is more opaque in color than regular rice. Pom said most Thai people usually buy just enough to make their dinner each night, they don't typically buy large quantities of rice or other foods. Annette had also told us basically the same thing.

Dragon fruit and mangoes

Making our own curry paste for Massaman Curry

Eating the Thai lunch we prepared! Massaman beef curry, and sweet and sour vegetables with deep fried fish (fresh from the Mekong River).

Working together to make coconut sticky rice. We used a blue flower to dye the coconut marinade.

Zipline trip through the jungle canopy outside Chiang Mai.

There goes Ryan, flying through the jungle!

Going down...

On the morning of our last day, Annette took us to visit the Lamp of Thailand, an organization begun by Paul Manikem, an American missionary with Indian background, which is now owned and operated by the Church of Christ in Thailand (CCT). It's mission is similar to that of TEEZ: it helps teach lay people in the church. They have several Bible courses that are basically correspondence courses, which have materials, tests and are awarded certificates of completion. They have 5 main levels of curriculum: Children's lessons, Apologetic material for "seekers" (child or adult), NT Comic ook series, Bible Survey courses, and Bible Commentary Series. We were most impressed by their funding percentages. Over 70% of the Lamp's budget comes from CCT churches, which less than 1% comes from outside donors, according to the Director.

CCT building in Chiang Mai, where the Lamp of Thailand has an office.

One series has 8 comic-books, 4 covering the stories of Jesus and 4 covering the Acts of the Apostles & early Church. Comic books are the print medium of choice of youth in Thailand. The Lamp bought the rights to the books and translated them into Thai.

with the Lamp of Thailand staff

from left: Mrs. Watcharee Maneekarn, Molly, Mrs. Rujira Pookmanee, Mr. Suk Kongkannanan, Mrs. Sutim "Auntie" Thianlaosaen, Rev. Pornpak Juanchaiyaphum (Director), Mrs. Rujee Doomkham (Asst Director), Annette, Ryan, & Mrs. Siriporn Chilachan.

On the wall are photos of the past Directors of the Lamp, including Beth Roadarmel's parents (second to left).

A HUGE thank you to Annette George, and all the people at Payap for their generous hospitality during our visit to Chaing Mai!